Around Annapurnas 1st part : from Besisahar to Chame

Waterfall, trek Around  Annapurnas, Nepal

After some express shopping in Kathmandu, we started the famous trek around Annapurnas. It is the most popular trek in Nepal, at least during the right season, because during the Monsoon, nobody comes here except some daredevils! Our bags are optimised : less than 10 kg each, including 2L of water each.

Momos, Népal dumplings

We started at Besisahar (+800 m a.s.l.) which is a small town. We arrived after a very tough mini-van ride : 19 passengers in a monospace. We had some Momos (Tibetan dumplings), and we started our first day of trek without really knowing what to expect.
It is very difficult to find information about trekking here during the Monsoon, and most of the information available says don’t do it.

Local bus, Besisahar, Nepal

The road was so bad that during one hour we walked at the same pace as the local bus (mud pool, stones …). We had the best and most up to date map, sadly non-sufficient and imprecise. And so we ended in Arkhale for our first night, in a “Tea House” : runing water (a waterfall 30 meters away on the road), no electricity, no toilets, but at least a descent shelter against rain!

We had just entered the mighty mountains, and so we were taught by a teacher who was going to his school (3 days of walk). During all the following week, we had nice weather the day, and rain during the night, lucky us!

Waterfall, Annapurnas trek, Nepal

Path are quite busy with trekkers (few), porters (or super-men, they carry loads bigger and heavier than a man), and caravans of mules which are the only way to supply local villages.

Caravan of mules, Nepal

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All along the trek, prices are regulated and fixed by a comity of villagers in each village, thus, it is more expensive, but the development is healthier. We are totally off season and so we were offered the room if we had dinner and breakfast. In fact as the villages are hard to supply, food is way more expensive than accommodation (food is about 4 to 10 times more expensive, depending of the remoteness).

Road to Tal,Trek around  Annapurnas, Népal

Cannabis plants, trek around Annapurnas, Nepal

The road passes through huts and fields of maze. Cannabis is growing here like weed, but nobody cares (except maybe trekkers, on our map a spot with a “cannabis field” label). Roads are often blocked or obstructed, and so we cross a lot the rivers (left bank right bank left bank …) on minimalist suspended bridge covered by prayer flags.

Terrace cultivation, Nepal

Bridge with prayer flags, trek around Annapurnas, Nepal

Prayer flags are a good trick (no disrespect) coming from Tibet. If you put the flag in the right position, the wind is going to carry prayers all around, to the benefice of your karma. Another trick : the prayer wheels you can see at entry and exit of villages. These are cylinder of wood or metal carved with prayer, when you spin it you improve your karma .

Prying wheels, Nepal

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We arrived at Tal, which is a kind of hidden flat space between two massive rocks face in the curve of the river.
Next day we are stopped along the road. Workers are making a new road, and they use explosives for it.

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Even at more than 500 meters away, we feel the blast on our checks. Huge stones have been hurled on the other bank of the river, and a big dust cloud acts like a fog for 15 minutes.
The road still ascend slowly, but after Danaquil serious stuff begins: stairs, wild river to cross over slippy logs, then forest path. Needles to say that these areas are very remote, so just bring electricity is not an option, electric lines would be down each rain season. Nepali people have brightly solved this problem by setting numerous micro hydroelectric stations locally, which enables inhabitants to watch satellite TV!

Millet field, trek around Annapurnas, Nepal

Mountain in the clouds, trek around Annapurnas, Nepal

Thanchowk village is a peaceful apparition along the way: it is fully constructed with dressed stones, including roads, and it’s millet terraces cast a red glow under the declining sun.
In the Hymalaya it is often almost a miracle than a road is able to pass, so the layout is far from being optimal, and usually you have to climb down what you just painfully climbed up!

Read next part…

3 comments for “Around Annapurnas 1st part : from Besisahar to Chame”

  1. Merci pour ces jolies photos..j’ai reconnu certains drapeaux.. et je vous envoie de la lumière..
    Quelle aventure!!Ouah!!
    Super bisous de Mumcocci!

  2. Hay les loulous !!
    Merci pour ce reportage ! 🙂
    Est-ce-que les danseurs de rue font aussi pipi toutes les 45 minutes ?
    Est-ce-qu’ils sont beaux les Népalais ?

  3. Les Nepalais sont plutot petit et costaux, hommes et femmes, et en semblent pas etre affecte par la pipi-ite aigue!

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